반영구 눈썹문신 기법 :: 반영구화장 박사님이 알려주는 엠보눈썹 핵심 포인트
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안녕하세요?조앤미 아카데미 권선미 원장입니다.
엠보눈썹, 자연눈썹, 수지눈썹, 섀도우눈썹
눈썹문신을 받아본 분들이나, 받을 예정이라면 한 번쯤 들어보셨을 거예요.
그중 오늘은 반영구화장 엠보눈썹 기법에 대해서 이야기하려 합니다.
반영구화장 눈썹문신의 기법에는 종류가 있어요.
그중 흔히 자연눈썹 이라고 불리는 엠보(embroidery) 기법은 눈썹이 부분적으로 비어 있는 부분에 예리한 바늘로 선을 그어서 자연 눈썹 결처럼 표현하는 기법으로
시술 직후에도 자연스러운 눈썹을 연출할 수 있는 것이 특징입니다.
시술 후에도 자연스럽다는 특징 때문에 자연눈썹이라고 이름지어졌으며, 다른 기법보다 더 선호하시는 기법이라 할 수 있죠!
<엠보눈썹기법>
이렇게 여러 개의 핀이 병렬로 나열된 니들을 사용하여 선을 한 올 한 올 그어서 눈썹 모처럼 보이게 표현합니다.
자세히 보시면 니들의 개수와 굵기가 조금씩 다른데
니들의 개수, 굵기에 따라서 표현되는 선의 느낌이 다르기 때문에 눈썹 모의 양과 두께에 맞춰 니들을 조절하여 쓰는 것을 추천합니다.
예를 들어 눈썹 모가 굵고 많은 남자의 경우에는 너무 얇은 니들을 사용하게 되면 빈 곳이 채워지는 느낌이 없어 이런 경우 적당한 굵기의 니들을 사용해야 합니다.
눈썹모가 굵고 많으면 = 굵고 많은수의 니들
눈썹모가 얇고 옅으면 = 얇은 적은수의 니들
반영구화장 엠보눈썹 테크닉에서는 꼭 염두해야 할 몇 가지 핵심 포인트가 있어요.
그중 가장 먼저 고려해야 하는 것이 바로 눈썹 모의 흐름입니다.
눈썹은 크게 앞머리, 바디(앞머리와 꼬리 사이), 꼬리로 세 부분으로 나뉘는데
앞머리는 보통 짧은 직선, 바디부분은 포물선, 꼬리는 긴 직선으로 표현됩니다.
사람마다 눈썹 모의 숱, 눈썹이 자라있는 모양이 다른 것처럼 이 흐름도 개인마다 약간의 차이는 있어요!
하지만 대부분이 이 형식으로 자라 있다고 보시면 됩니다!
가지고 있는 눈썹의 흐름에 맞추어 직선과 곡선, 짧은 선, 긴 선을 전체 눈썹 결에 따라 적절하게 사용해야 합니다.
흐름이 다 조금씩 다르기 때문에 흐름을 읽고 적절히 적용할 수 있는 연습이 필요해요.
선을 표현할 때 너무 촘촘하게 시술하면 색이 피부에 착색되는 과정에 선이 뭉쳐버리는 경향이 있어
어느 정도 간격을 주면서 선을 표현하는 것이 좋습니다!!
자연눈썹 시술 후 뭉개져 보이는 경우
= 선을 너무 촘촘히 그려서
두번째 또다른 엠보눈썹 핵심 포인트는 니들의 깊이 조절입니다.
니들이 피부에 깊이 들어가게 되면 색이 진하게 남아 나중에 색이 옅어질 때 번지고 얼룩져 보이게 됩니다.
자연눈썹 시술후 얼룩진 경우
= 니들이 너무 깊게 들어가서
하지만 니들이 피부에 얼마나 들어가는지 육안으로 볼 수 없기 때문에선을 그을 때 나는 피부가 긁히는 소리로 깊이를 판단합니다.
니들의 깊이 연습에는 바나나 연습!
니들로 바나나 표면을 긁게 되면 시술 시 피부가 긁히는 소리가 비슷하게 납니다.
사각사각하는 소리를 듣고 니들의 깊고 얕음을 파악할 수 있습니다.
그래서 가끔 힘 조절, 깊이 연습이 필요한 수강생님들 께는 바나나 연습을 시켜요^^ (살짝 덜 익은 바나나가 좋답니다)
종이에서 흐름을 파악해서 선을 채우는 연습과깊이 연습을 충분히 한 후 이제 실습에 들어가죠!
수강생님 엠보눈썹 모델 실습 전 모습 사진입니다.
눈썹 숱이 적은 편은 아니지만 눈썹 꼬리부분으로 갈수록 눈썹이 흐린 눈썹이에요.
▶엠보기법은 눈썹 숱이 너무 없는 사람보다는 적당히 있는 사람에게 더 추천드려요◀
왜냐하면 어느 정도 눈썹 숱이 있는 사람은 그어진 엠보 선과, 본인의 눈썹모가 같이 어우러져 자연스럽게 보이는데 반해
눈썹 숱이 없는 사람은 한 올 한 올 그어진 엠보선이 비교적 확연히 드러나기 때문이죠.
반영구화장 이론 과정 내내 종이에 연습하신 대로 눈썹 모의 결을 파악하고 적절한 선의 간격과, 깊이 조절을 연습 하신 결과가 실습에서 확연히 드러납니다!!
실습 직후 찍은 사진인데도 진한 느낌 없이 정말 자연스럽죠!
원장님의 코칭 + 수강생님 실력이 이루어낸 너무 예쁜 결과물
이렇게 비교해서 보니 더 확실히 눈에 보이죠!
반영구화장 전문가한테 배우니 역시 전문가 같은 결과물 나오는것은 당연한 것
꾸준한 연습과 충분한 실습도 매우 중요합니다.

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